The Film Developing Cookbook Pdf 12 !EXCLUSIVE!

I have ordered the chemicals from FF and have some Pan-F Plus to work with. That film is very contrasty, but I think FX-21 will do the trick. I used it just a couple of times back in the 1970s, on Adox KB-14.

You'll note that Rodent-All comes in last (or tied for last) in every category in the Leica magazine test: speed, definition graininess. Of course, with very slow films the differences are less dramatic.

Interesting film-developer survey. Unfortunately again without example pictures. But when was this published? According to the tested films it must be in the mid 1960ties. E. g. Ilford FP3 was abandoned in 1968. The only films that are available today are the P30 and TRI-X Pan, but I doubt very much, that the reintroduced P30 or the TRI-X of today are the same as the ones of these days.

Actually, they are probably very similar. Tri-X was improved around 1960 (see link below), and likely not much changed since then. I have spoken directly to Kodak about this, via e-mail and phone. They said that the quality control is better today, and the product is more consistent (stricter control over raw materials, improved manufacturing processes, etc.) but the basic 'approach' hasn't really changed. Regardless, the basic character of slow, medium, and fast films remains as it was when these tests were made (1968, I believe). By the way, I did use some DuPont Superior #4, and it was very much like Tri-X. I used a lot of UFG developer, too, mostly with Tri-X but also with FP4.

"Tri-X, indicated by the author as 1959 type, although superseded by a similarly named film having somewhat different characteristics, has been included because supplies of the former film will no doubt continue to be available for some time owing to its excellent keeping qualities under refrigeration, and to the substantial quantities on hand."

Guess the last great change in TRI-X was in 2006, when they reduced the amount of silver used for it. Also the name was changed to the 400TX of today. IIRC also the developing times changed. It might be similar, but probably not the same.

Could be. It is stated at least at Wikipedia here. Developing time changed definitely. It was decreased about 14%. In my database the first new 400TX appeared in late 2006. But the expiring date of these films was 09/2006. So it has been produced even earlier.

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Bill Troop is the principal author of "The Film Developing Cookbook",[1] in print continuously since 1998, and widely considered to be the standard contemporary work on black and white film processing and chemistry. An expanded 2nd edition was published in November 2019[2] and a French translation was published in 2021.[3]

As a chemist, he has designed products for Photographers' Formulary, Inc., including TF-4, the first alkaline fixer for black and white film and papers to be sold, and TD-3, a film developer which was reported to provide superior speed and dynamic range and lower grain in the category of low contrast film developers designed for high contrast films such as Kodak Technical Pan and similar.[4] TF-4's use as a helpful adjunct to tanning developers was discussed in detail by Gordon Hutchings in "The Book of Pyro" [5] Alkaline fixing for black and white silver halide films and printing papers was considered revolutionary when Troop introduced it. Though still controversial, it has since become a recognized technique in photographic processing as it offers reduced washing times, increased archival stability, and reduced environmental impact. Troop published the first formulas for alkaline fixers,[5] and several manufacturers now produce them.

The Film Developing Cookbook, 2nd edition is an up-to-date manual for photographic film development techniques. This book concentrates on films, their characteristics, and the developers each requires for maximum control of the resulting image.

A must-have for analog photography enthusiasts and any photography students using the darkroom. For in-depth discussion and questions on all things film or darkroom join the Darkroom Cookbook Forum, www.darkroomcookbook.com

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A tank is the vessel used to hold your film and chemistry in place and prevent light from exposing the film during the developing process. The Paterson tank system is an industry standard for plastic tanks and comes with everything you need besides reels. For purists out there, stainless steel tanks for roll film are also of a standard size and offer increased durability and temperature retention. Whichever way you go, keep in mind that plastic reels must be matched with plastic tanks, and stainless-steel reels must be matched with stainless steel tanks.

Depending on the number of chemicals you end up using, working and stock solutions should be kept in labeled storage containers for easy access and to prolong their working life. The size of the container is dependent on the chemistry you are using and how often you will be developing film.

After spending time familiarizing yourself by loading a practice roll in light and dark, move to your completely dark space and configure your equipment: have your tank and, if applicable, center post, funnel, and lid all laid out, along with your reels. I like to also keep a pair of scissors in my back pocket to trim the film from the spool or remove film leaders, as well as pry open 35mm cartridges if necessary. Once set, turn out the lights and wait a few moments for your eyes to adjust, which will allow you to spot if any light is creeping into your loading space. Go through the process of either ratcheting or rolling your film onto the reels, put them into the tank or onto the center post, attach the lid or funnel, and make sure all of your film is secure before turning on the lights or leaving the light-tight space.

While the answer may require some experimentation depending on the type of film you are shooting, a good rule of thumb when pushing film during development is to adjust (lengthen) the amount of time you leave the film in the developer by x1.25 to x1.5 for each stop the film was pushed. As an example, say the normal development time for your ISO 200 film is 7 minutes and 30 seconds. If you shot your film with the camera's meter set to ISO 400, then you pushed your film by one (1) f-stop. As such, on the short end of the development time, you would increase the development time from 7 minutes 30 seconds to 9 minutes and 22.5 seconds (a 1.25x increase in development time). On the long end of the scale, you would increase the development time to 11 minutes and 15 seconds (a 1.5x increase in development time). You may wish to experiment with a particular brand and ISO film speed stock to see what amount of pushed development time increase works best for your desired outcome within that 9 minute 22.5 second to 11 minute 15 second range as used in the above example. (As you did not indicate the brand/model film being used, I used a generic example above).

2. Lets suppose the developers and fixers were intended for reusable solutions, next time i know we have to extend development and fixing times accordingly in some percentage of time but suppose its 24 reusable rolls then does that mean we will be developing it for 24 times? (considering we develop each roll each time!)

Thanks for the comments, Mandeep. Re: developing times, the answer is that is depends greatly on the film-developer combo you're using. Some combinations will have developing times as short as 5 minutes, some will be longer than 10 or 15 minutes. Check the developer bottle and film box for an idea of where to start. And you won't want to "overdevelop" just for the sake of preventing underdevelopment, because then your film will be overdeveloped. Think of it like baking- you wouldn't over-bake food to the point of it being burnt or dry just in spite of it not being under-baked.

With adding time with reusable/replenished chemistry, you likely won't be needing to up the developing time with each roll. Adding time is typically done as the chemistry ages, but, again, it's one of those situations where "it depends." If you're reusing solution to develop 24 rolls, one after another and one roll at a time, your need to up the developing time will be a bit different than if you developed one roll of film per month for two years. Regardless, I don't think you'll encounter a situation where you'll need to go as far as increasing the time by 24x. It's also worth mentioning that this is one of those reasons why one-shot/single-use developers are often preferred in general use situations, for the consistency in developing times. 2b1af7f3a8